Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 season was a masterclass in blending heritage with modernity. It had everything: bold statements, nostalgic references and a strong sense of identity from Italian luxury houses. Here’s my take on this season’s highlights:
Return to power dressing
This season, there was a palpable sense of confidence on the Milanese runways. Unlike the minimalism seen in previous seasons, brands embraced structured tailoring, rich fabrics, and dramatic silhouettes. There was a return to power dressing – not just in the sense of corporate chic, but in the way clothes were designed to make a strong statement. Whether it was Prada’s sharp outerwear or Versace’s bold shapes, there was an energy that suggested strength, luxury and timelessness.
Standout trends
Some key trends defined the collections, setting the tone for what will likely dominate fashion in the coming months:
Powerful tailoring: Boxy jackets, oversized coats, and fitted suits made a comeback. Think shoulder pads, nipped-in waists, and structured blazers. Giorgio Armani, Fendi, and Prada all leaned into this.
Rich, deep colors: The usual black and neutrals were contrasted with deep plums, olive greens, and rich chocolates. There was an emphasis on sophistication rather than loud, attention-grabbing palettes.
Dramatic outerwear: From Versace’s exaggerated coats to Prada’s layered trenches, outerwear was a major focus. The idea was clear: statement coats are the new “it” pieces.
Textured fabrics: Leather, faux fur, tweed and velvet played a crucial role in adding depth and dimension to outfits. Bottega Veneta’s luxurious leather looks were particularly striking.
Maximalist accessories: Oversized bags, bold gloves and structured belts added to the larger-than-life silhouettes. It was all about making an entrance.
Top designers, collections
Some brands truly stole the spotlight this season. Here are my picks:
Prada: The Modern UniformMiuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued their intellectual approach to fashion, refining the idea of uniform dressing. They played with classic wardrobe staples – coats, skirts, knitwear – but made them feel modern with new proportions. There was a focus on simplicity with an edge and styling was effortlessly cool. One standout piece? A sharply tailored coat with a built-in scarf detail.
Versace: Power & DramaDonatella Versace gave us a mix of classic Versace sexiness with structured elegance. Think sculptural silhouettes, sharp suiting, and ultra-glam eveningwear. The color palette featured jewel tones and high-shine metallics, making it feel rich and confident. It felt like a more mature Versace woman – someone who enjoys drama but is also in complete control.
Gucci: Still Finding Its FootingGucci under Sabato De Sarno is still in transition. This season’s collection was quieter, more wearable, and focused on craftsmanship. There were classic Gucci codes like luxurious suiting and 1970s references, but it felt more subdued compared to past extravagant shows. Some loved the pared-down elegance, while others missed the maximalism from the Alessandro Michele era.
Dolce & Gabbana: A Lesson in Italian GlamourDolce & Gabbana went back to what they do best: cinematic, Old-Hollywood-inspired glamour. The collection was dominated by corsetry, lace, and strong feminine tailoring. It felt like a tribute to their Sicilian roots, but with a more streamlined and modern take.
Fendi: Luxury for the Modern WomanFendi’s collection was a lesson in understated luxury. The focus was on clean lines, soft tailoring, and investment pieces. One of the most talked-about elements? The exquisite use of texture, from shearling coats to buttery leather dresses.
New designers to watch
While the big houses commanded attention, some emerging designers brought fresh energy to Milan:
Francesco Risso at Marni played with sculptural layering and bold colors, making the brand feel young and playful.
Sunnei brought a dose of streetwear cool, blending relaxed tailoring with innovative textures.
Andrea Adamo presented a modern take on knitwear, redefining how body-conscious silhouettes can feel luxurious.
What this season tells
Milan Fashion Week felt strong, confident and luxurious. While Paris has the avant-garde and New York champions commercial wearability, Milan remains the capital of Italian craftsmanship and timeless elegance. This season reminded us why Italian brands lead in luxury, high-quality fabrics, and an appreciation for strong, feminine dressing.
It was a season for those who love powerful fashion – bold shapes, rich textures and timeless sophistication. Milan didn’t scream for attention; it simply proved why Italian fashion is always a step ahead.
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